Waimea Bay
WNW to NW
Calm or ENE to S
Yes
Swell Direction
Wind
Localism
4x Overhead or Larger
Surf Height
Medium
Tide
DIFFICULTY
Description
Waimea Bay's outer waters boast considerable depth and clarity, devoid of outer reefs or shoals. Consequently, much of the energy from long-period swells is deflected away from the bay by the flanking outer reefs at Alligators and Log Cabins, resulting in a noticeable swell void within Waimea. This can create a deceptive calmness during the initial stages of a significant swell, contrasting with nearby spots. However, as the swell interval falls within mid-period bands, expect increased swell energy to funnel into the bay, with Waimea peaking later than neighboring spots that favor the initial longer period energy.
When Waimea awakens, the bay transforms into a tumultuous washing machine, with water surging in along each side and a formidable rip current pulling outward in the center. Yet, it's the massive waves breaking far off the north side of the bay that earn worldwide renown. Despite the frenzied activity inside the bay, the actual takeoff zone can be surprisingly serene between sets.
Rideable waves initially appear in the overhead to double overhead-plus zone at Pinballs—a lumpy reef nearly parallel to the bay's north point, particularly enjoyable on clean NW swells with a light tradewind. As the swell escalates beyond three to four times overhead, waves start to peak and break just inside a prominent boil 80 yards past Pinballs, offering a drop, a fat shoulder, and reform shots further in. With further swell increase, waves begin breaking on the shallower regions of the true Waimea takeoff area—a relatively flat lava rock ledge roughly 50 yards outside the boil, characterized by its abrupt lurch from deeper water. The sudden appearance of this ledge amplifies the challenge of a late drop, defining Waimea's characteristic semi-freefall takeoff. Toward the beach, waves ease off and reform into a formidable shorebreak, growing thicker and larger toward the western end and occasionally presenting enticing left barrels.
Accessing and exiting the bay is primarily through the keyhole, situated near the rocks in the northeast corner, where the shorebreak is minimal. While manageable on smaller days, it requires precise timing as conditions worsen. Attempting to enter through the shorebreak toward the southern end of the bay is ill-advised, often resulting in the infamous Bay Loop, where surfers find themselves heading back out to sea and around again to nail the keyhole exit.
Expert